The Inn at
Quirpon Island, Newfoundland is reputed
as a wonderful place to do some whale
watching. The waters run quite deep right
off shore, and whales customarily swim in
very close to feed on the constant and
abundant supply of food. After dinner,
you can typically sit in the whale
observatory perched high on the cliffside
and do some whale watching.
This little whale kept
swimming in the vicinity. It was
difficult to time the shutter delay on my
camera to make it click on cue as I could
only guess when it would surface to
breathe. Whale sightings are quite
common.
Soon, it's time for
dinner. In addition to the couple that
shared the boat ride with me, we are
joined by the sea kayakers, and three
friends (2 guys and a girl) traveling
together from Switzerland. In all, we
have 5 nationalities represented at the
table to animate an interesting
conversation.
After dinner, I retreat to
the living room. There is an extensive
bookshelf offering a selection of many
books relating to Newfoundland, its
history, its culture, and its people. A
perfect and appropriate way to wind down
an interesting day.
Being out in the North
Atlantic Ocean, the weather here can be
serious. But that's the beauty of it. As
evening wears on, the winds pick up
significantly and it begins to rain. In
the quiet surroundings of the living
room, the raging wind outside is hardly
discernible. But you can almost feel the
high frequency buffeting as the wind
pummels the walls. It quickly becomes
clear that there will be no kayaking
tomorrow. This is a major system that has
moved in.
All is quiet and peaceful
in my room while there is fury unleashed
just on the other side of the window.
Morning:
I'm up very early, in the faint hope that
the weather has improved. It has relented
somewhat, but winds are still at a steady
40 to 50mph with frequent, stronger
gusts. And the rain is still moderately
strong. So there is nothing to do but
read for the next hour or so, as I wait
for the kitchen to fire up.
There's not much point in
staying another day and so, after a
fortifying breakfast, I set out for the
50 minute trek back. I'm joined by the
three friends from Switzerland. Given the
weather this morning, our rendez-vous
with the boat will be a little further
out.
As opposed to my Swiss
companions, who are clearly not dressed
nor prepared for this type of weather, my
motorcycle gear protects me perfectly.
But even with the gale force winds that
we fight, often full on, I overheat and
sweat profusely. My gear may perform well
in wet conditions, but it just isn't
designed to deal with persistent levels
of exertion as you continually push
against an invisible force while trodding
on soggy ground and carrying luggage.
At times, it's all I can
do to fight the temptation to remove my
helmet. I'm just too hot. But my head
would be soaked in a minute. I also know
full well that the relief would be
short-lived as I look at my Swiss friends
who are struggling to maintain body heat.
What a juxtaposition.
But this exertion also
reminds me that I could be in more
physically fit. I make a definite mental
note.
We get to the appointed
pickup location only to realize that the
boat has yet to arrive. Nowhere in sight.
Our accompanying guide does not seem
concerned, so we sit on some rocks amid
the wind and rain.
Soon enough we faintly
hear what seems like an outboard motor.
Our transport of choice
this morning is what looks to me as a row
boat, though I do understand that it is a
capable, sea worthy craft. Fishermen use
it all the time. It's called into action
this morning because it allows the
easiest and safest way to dock along a
rocky shoreline when the weather is bad.
And today, that's the prime
consideration.
Even so, it takes our
skipper several attempts before he safely
accosts. And then the challenge is to
keep the bobbing boat steady during
loading as there is no dock.
There is a lot of auditory
fury. We have to shout to be heard above
the wind and outboard motor. But through
all this, the skipper seems calm and
totally in his element.
My Swiss mates can't
believe it. This type of weather is
totally alien to them and their mood has
soured somewhat. This whole thing turns
out to be way beyond their expectations.
But I suspect that one day they will look
back at this with a certain fondness and
say, "remember when. . . ."
We all sit facing forward.
I'm sitting on the most forward bench. As
we head into the clearing it feels like
we suddenly hit a solid wall of wind and
rain. I'm almost laughing. I love the
fury of the elements. But when I turn
next to me and look at my Swiss neighbor
to share the moment, I notice that he is
tightly huddled, eyes squinting, clearly
not enjoying any of this. I'm again
reminded that how we experience a
situation often and to a large extent
depends on how we choose to perceive it.
I turn right around and
look at our skipper. He is smiling and
has that illuminated glimmer in his eye,
looking dead ahead amid the fury of wind
and thrashing of waves. It's an arresting
look. The type of look that conveys that
he's in his element doing what he was
meant to do. Can anything be more
meaningful?
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